Talbot County’s Master Gardener Program will receive an International David Gibby Search for Excellence Award in September during the 2021 International Master Gardener Conference. This prestigious award – named for the founder of all Master Gardener Programs – spotlights our University of Maryland Extension Master Gardeners’ “Nurture Nature Coaching Workshop.” The event took place in person, pre-pandemic, in the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum’s Van Lennep Auditorium in early March 2020.

This year’s IMG Conference, hosted by the Virginia Extension Master Gardener Program, will take place virtually. More than a thousand program volunteers from 50 states, Canada, and South Korea are expected to attend. The award, judged by peers, recognizes “exemplary group projects that show significant learning by Master Gardeners or the public” that “frequently serve as models, influencing the development of Master Gardener-led programs throughout the world.” Talbot County’s 3^rd place award appears in the “Program/Workshop” category with those from Fulton County, Georgia and Manatee County, Florida.

Photo: Talbot County Master Gardener Volunteers have been recognized with an international award for an innovative workshop designed to help our community garden more sustainably. Sharing the award are (Back) Mary Ripple, Melinda Hudson, Pat Jessup, Marilyn Reedy, Mary Sue Traynelis, Reenie Rice, Mikaela Boley (Front) Kathi Bangert, Mary Ellen Olcese, Janet Mackey, Rita Mhley, Sheilah Egan, Carol Jelich. Not pictured are Desne Roe, Leslie Coleman, Elizabeth Whiteley, Mary Revell, Janet Friedberg, Charlotte Meyer, Mimi Morris, Janis Trainor, Chris Myles-Tochko. Photo credit: Ron Ketter

The “Nurture Nature Coaching Workshop” involved more than 20 local Master Gardener Volunteers. As educational outreach, it encouraged residents to take actions in their own yards to make room for nature and create healthier living landscapes.

The workshop began with a brief video segment from a Joe Lamp’l “Growing a Greener World” television episode featuring entomologist Doug Tallamy, emphasizing how important it is for gardeners to plant native plants and create habitat for insects and birds.

In a subsequent panel discussion, 5 Master Gardeners shared stories and examples of ways they reduced their lawns and increased garden areas to support wildlife.

Afterwards, participants were offered the opportunity for one-on-one coaching with Master Gardener volunteers stationed around the auditorium.

To reinforce key points of the workshop, volunteers developed a brochure highlighting 10 achievable steps that participants could take to reduce lawn and “nurture nature” on residential properties ranging from multi-acre to small, townhouse yards.

The free program reached audience capacity with nearly 90 registered more than a week in advance. Post-program evaluations demonstrated that participants were enthusiastic to include more native plants, reduce lawn, and increase wildlife habitat. Additionally, nearly a dozen audience members requested Bay-Wise consultations by Master Gardener volunteers to help identify natural stewardship strategies for their own properties.

Talbot Master Gardeners continue to offer free Bay-Wise property consultations by request to:
Senior Agent Associate Mikaela Boley / mboley@umd.edu / 410 822-1244

To learn more about the Master Gardener Program, visit: https://extension.umd.edu/locations/talbot-county

There once was a garden in Maryland
Whose plants weren’t looking to grand
They all cried for rain
But it was totally in vain
Because Mother Nature wouldn’t lend them a hand

Outdoor Garden and Yard Tips

• August is frequently a dry month. If needed, water newly planted trees and shrubs. Allow the water to soak into the surrounding soil and the root ball.
• Fall webworm is a late summer caterpillar 1-2 inch long and hairy caterpillar. It creates large tent like webbing on the ends of branches of various shade trees and shrubs. Unsightly but causes little damage. Numerous caterpillars, including leafrollers, orange striped oak worm, green-striped maple worms, oak skeletonizers, and sawflies are feeding on various shade trees. No controls are necessary. If you see saddleback caterpillars or other stinging caterpillars, leave them be.
• Avoid mowing your lawn during extreme dry and hot weather. Mowing wounds grass blades creating more surface area for plant moisture to escape.
• Brown patch is a common fungal disease of tall fescue lawns that creates thin, brown areas. Grasses will green up and recover in the fall. No chemical controls are recommended. This disease is typically worse on over-fertilized and irrigated lawns.
• Remove hosta leaves that are yellowing or scorched (brown leaf margins). In many cases, this is caused by a combination of hot, dry conditions, or diseases like alternaria and anthracnose (Colletotrichum). If disease related, leaf removal will help to slow down disease progression.
• Southern blight, a significant soil-borne disease, is promoted by hot and humid weather. It attacks a wide range of annuals, groundcovers, and perennials including thyme, coneflower, coreopsis, and black-eyed Susan. Affected lower stems turn brown or black, foliage wilts and plants will eventually dry up and die.
• Submit a soil sample for testing if planning a lawn renovation project in the fall.
• European hornets sometimes strip the bark off shrubs (especially lilac) and trees. This behavior rarely does harm. The European hornet is a large yellow and brown hornet that nests in cavities in trees, stumps, wood piles, sheds, etc., and feeds on insects. Unlike most other wasps and hornets this one is a night flyer.
• Try to ignore hornet, bee, and wasp nests found outside, especially if they are located in a tree or an isolated area. These are beneficial creatures that will not sting unless disturbed or provoked. However, if a hornet or yellowjacket nest is a threatening nuisance such as under your deck or near a door you can destroy it with a labeled wasp and hornet spray at night. Read and follow all label directions.
• Roses weakened or stressed by the hot dry summer weather are incredibly vulnerable to mites, aphids, and Japanese beetles. Japanese beetles can be controlled by knocking them off into a cup of soapy water. A low population of aphids does little damage and can be washed off with a steady stream of water from your hose. Remember to let the water run for a few moments to run out the hot water from the days sun before spraying plants. Aphids have many natural enemies including parasitic wasps, ladybird beetles (ladybugs) and larvae, and green lacewing adults and larvae. These natural enemies help keep aphid populations under control.
• High heat and humidity encourages powdery mildew in perennials. Avoid overhead watering. Remove diseased stems and leaves. Make a note in your garden log for next season to move affected plants further apart to increase air circulation between plants.

Photo: Scout squash plants for squash vine borer. If you notice a suddenly wilted squash plant inspect the vine for signs of holes and frass (moist greenish or orange sawdust like material). The stem near the entrance hole will feel mushy. The borer can be controlled in two ways. For active borers, make a vertical slit upward from where frassis observed. Use a razor or sharp knife and cut half-way through the stem. Remove and kill borer. Mound soil over the wound to induce supplemental rooting. However if there are several entrance holes all over the plant it is recommended to remove the plant and place is a black trash bag and put it in the sun for a few days. This will kill the squash vine borer larvae. Do not throw the plant in your compost pile. Photo credit: Rachel Rhodes.

Vegetable Garden

• Harvest tomatoes when they first change color and ripen them on a kitchen counter.
• Brown and green Southern stink bugs are active on tomatoes and peppers. They feed on the fruits producing a yellow or white “cloudy spot” directly under the fruit skin. These spots become hard but can be cut out with a sharp knife and won’t affect flavor. If stink bugs are a problem, try handpicking first or spraying pyrethrum.  The spray must contact the stinkbugs to be effective.
• Harvest and preserve tarragon, rosemary, basil, sage, and other culinary herbs. Fresh basil leaves freeze well in plastic bags that can be sealed. Pick individually, and dry indoors, or hang the stems a dry, semi-shady room. Store dry leaves in air-tight jars. Herb leaves are most intensely flavored right before the plant blooms.
• Remove and dispose of all rotted or dropped fruits and foliage from trees, vines, and bushes. This will help reduce the overwintering of diseases and insect pests that will attack your fruit plants next season.
• Plant a late crop of basil, cilantro, and dill and a last crop of snap beans the first week of August.
• Plant cool season crops, including spinach, lettuce, carrots, beets, broccoli, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, turnips, kale and mustard. Keep seedlings moist and mulched.  Order garlic, walking onions, and shallots for fall planting.
• Grass clippings and spent plants from the flower and vegetable garden provide a good source of high nitrogen green materials for the compost pile. Fallen leaves and old straw mulch are good sources of high carbon brown materials. Shred your materials with a lawnmower, string trimmer or machete to speed-up the breakdown process. Keep sticks, roots, and woody stems out of your compost pile. They take too long to breakdown and make it difficult to turn the ingredients. Water your compost pile weekly when you water the garden and turn it regularly.

Rachel J. Rhodes, rjrhodes@umd.edu is the Horticulture Educator and Master Gardener Coordinator for the University of Maryland Extension in Queen Anne’s County. She is one third of the Garden Thyme Podcast. The Garden Thyme Podcast is a monthly podcast where University of Maryland Extension Educators, help you get down and dirty in your garden, with timely gardening tips, information about native plants, and more!

For further information, please visithttps://extension.umd.edu/queen-annes-county/master-gardener-home-gardening  or see us on Facebook @ https://www.facebook.com/QueenAnnesCountyMasterGardeners or listen to The Garden Thyme Podcast at:  https://www.buzzsprout.com/687509

University programs, activities, and facilities are available to all without regard to race, color, sex, gender identity or expression, sexual orientation, marital status, age, national origin, political affiliation, physical or mental disability, religion, protected veteran status, genetic information, personal appearance, or any other legally protected class.

If you have not noticed summer is officially here. The hot dry weather can do significant damage to our plants and gardens. Here are some tips to help you along the way:

Outdoor Garden and Yard Tips

• Spotted lanternfly adults may be found feeding on many hosts, especially tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissma). Report any finds to the Maryland Department of Agriculture immediately, collect a sample or take digital photos on what you have found.
• Japanese beetles may be feeding heavily at this time. Brush the beetles into a bucket of soapy water held underneath foliage or branches. The use of Japanese beetle traps near your plants is not recommended. Studies show that traps can attract more beetles to your landscape resulting in increased damage.
• Mulch your landscape now if you haven’t done so already.  Mulch helps keep weeds down and conserves soil moisture. Mulch should be applied 1-2 inches deep and kept away from tree and shrub trunks.
• Bagworm caterpillars are now very active. Look for little bags crawling around on evergreen trees and shrubs and be prepared to spray infested trees with the microbial insecticide, Bt by mid-July. Mature bagworms are not well controlled with Bt They are best collected by hand and destroyed or sprayed with insecticides containing spinosad.
• Proper lawn mowing is critical to help it survive the summer. “Mow ‘em high and let ‘em lie” should be your mowing strategy. Cut your cool-season turf (fescues and bluegrass) to a height of 3-4 inches and leave the clippings on the lawn where they will naturally decompose.

• Chrysanthemums and asters should be cut back halfway by mid-July to encourage fall blooming. If not trimmed they will bloom later this month and not in the fall.
• Patrol your yard for mosquito breeding sites. At least twice a week, check and remove water that may be standing in trash and recycling cans, flower pot saucers, children’s and pets toys, wading pools, tires, tarps or plastic sheeting.
• Ticks are active year-round. After spending time outdoors in an area where ticks may be present get in the habit of doing a tick check upon your arrival home.
• Tie all dahlias and lilies to the upper third of their stakes. Stake gladiolus as they gain height.
• Harvest or deadhead dahlias and other flowering bulbs and annuals.
• Check the moisture in plant containers every three to four days. Check small pots and hanging baskets every day.

Vegetable Garden

• The hot July sun will quickly heat up the water in a hose. Run the hose until the water is tepid before watering the garden. A vegetable garden needs at least 1 inch of water per week in the summer.
• Blossom-end rot of tomato, pepper, squash, and watermelon causes the bottom (blossom) end of the fruit to become brown and rotted. Remove injured fruits, water plants well, and mulch to conserve soil moisture. Consistent watering and adequate calcium can prevent this disorder.

• Squash vine borer larvae are feeding inside squash and pumpkin stems. If leaves are wilting, or you see holes in the lower stems, with sawdust-like fresh, or droppings around the holes, slit the stem above the hole and with a razor and remove the larva. Then mound soil around the injured stem.
• Brown rot infects peach, cherry, and plum fruits. Pick peaches when background color changes and before fruits become fully ripened. Bring fruits indoors, submerge them in a 1:10 bleach to water solution to kill brown rot fungal spores, rinse well, and allow them to ripen in the kitchen.
• Leave blueberries on the plants for three to five days after they turn blue. This allows berries to reach their maximum sugar content.
• Harvest onions when tops die back; let them dry in the garden after digging them up, or tie the stems together and hang them up in a garage or attic with good air circulation. Store onions in a cool, dry place.
• Dig up garlic when the tops yellow and die; let dry in the sun, then store in an airy place before braiding, or storing in mesh bags, and hanging in a dry place.

Indoor Plants and Insect Tips

Photo: Tomato Hornworms are active in July. During their three-week lifespan, these caterpillars can gain more than one thousand times their weight. (Photo credit: Rachel Rhodes)

Photo: Squash bug eggs: These little copper eggs are often found on the underside of squash leaves and on stems. Eggs hatch in about 10 days, and nymphs mature in about four to six weeks. Both adults and nymphs hide under leaves when disturbed. (Photo credit: Rachel Rhodes)

Rachel J. Rhodes, rjrhodes@umd.edu is the Horticulture Educator and Master Gardener Coordinator for the University of Maryland Extension in Queen Anne’s County. She is one third of the Garden Thyme Podcast. The Garden Thyme Podcast is a monthly podcast where University of Maryland Extension Educators, help you get down and dirty in your garden, with timely gardening tips, information about native plants, and more!

For further information, please visit https://extension.umd.edu/queen-annes-county/master-gardener-home-gardening  or see us on Facebook @ https://www.facebook.com/QueenAnnesCountyMasterGardeners or listen to The Garden Thyme Podcast at:  https://www.buzzsprout.com/687509

University programs, activities, and facilities are available to all without regard to race, color, sex, gender identity or expression, sexual orientation, marital status, age, national origin, political affiliation, physical or mental disability, religion, protected veteran status, genetic information, personal appearance, or any other legally protected class.

In a few weeks, we will celebrate the official start to summer on June 21^st. For those of us in the Northern Hemisphere, the varieties of plants that you plant after this point will usually become fall crops. Here are some helpful tips to growing a successful garden as we transition from spring into summer.

Photo: Cut iris flower stalks down to the crown when they are finished blooming. Leave the foliage alone. If you are planning to divide your iris later next month, tie the same color ribbon as the flower around the foliage, making it very easy to know what color the plants are later when ready to divide. (Photo credit: Rachel Rhodes)

Outdoor Garden and Yard Tips

• Practice IPM(Integrated Pest Management) in your landscape. Do not spray your trees and shrubs preventively. This kills the predators and parasitoids that are helping to keep destructive pests under control.
• Water newly planted trees and shrubs until they become established (for about 2 years), especially in the summer and fall. Water deeply by allowing the water to soak into the soil directly underneath and around the root ball.  Check the depth of water penetration into the soil by digging a small hole after watering. It should be moist about 6 inches down. A 2-3 inch layer of mulch is helpful. Keep mulch away from the trunk or stem.
• Containers need extra attention, especially ones in direct sun; they tend to dry out quickly. Keep them watered during the heat of June.
• Apple scab and a number of rust diseases (cedar-apple, cedar-quince, cedar-hawthorn, Japanese apple, and pear trellis rust) are destructive diseases of crabapple in the landscape. They cause severe leaf defoliation by mid-summer if not treated.  The best defense is replacing disease prone cultivars with resistant selections available at garden centers.
• When creating a cut flower arrangement make sure that you clean and wash the vases and scissors with hot soapy water between uses. Completely change the water every 2 to 3 days. Trim flower with a fresh cut every few days.
• Bagworm larvae are hatching out this month and constructing new bags. Look for the little bags moving around on evergreen trees and shrubs and be prepared to spray infested trees with the microbial insecticide, B.t. between now and mid-July.
• National Pollinator week is June 21-27, 2021 celebrate by creating a pollinator garden. Plant native plants for continuous bloom throughout the growing season.
• Lilac borers enter older canes, especially on stressed lilacs. You will notice wilting of individual branches and small holes below the wilting indicating the point of entry.  Prune out affected branches.

Vegetable Garden

• Young tomato plants may be exhibiting symptoms of various leaf spot diseases such as septoria and early blight. Remove badly infected lower leaves, keep a thick organic mulch around plants and avoid overhead watering.
• Pinch off tomato suckers, to encourage larger, earlier fruit, especially if training to one central stem.
• “June drop” of excessive fruits (especially peaches) is a natural thinning phenomenon and is more pronounced where no hand thinning has occurred. Hand thin the fruits on plum, peach, apple and pear trees, leaving space (the width of one fruit) between remaining fruits. Disease and insect problems, environmental stress, and lack of pollination or fertilization can also cause fruit drop. Pick up and throw out all dropped fruits.
• Flea beetles are a serious pest of eggplant and also affect potato, tomato and members of the cabbage family.  Floating row covers (https://youtu.be/oNm6D0KKG_Q) are an effective means of management but should be removed when plants flower to allow for cross-pollination by bumblebees. Spraying plants with “Surround” (kaolin clay) creates a white particle film that can minimize flea beetle feeding. You can also control flea beetles with “neem”, a botanical insecticide.
• Plant a second crop of beans.
• Keep watering and weeding; mulch new crops to keep them from drying out.
• Learn to identify beneficial insects and keep a vigilant eye out for possible pest infestations.
• Hand pick cabbage worms from broccoli and other members of the cabbage family, or spray with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), if necessary.
• Hand pick Colorado potato beetle adults, larvae and orange egg masses on potato and eggplant plants.
• Hand pick harlequin bugs and their black and white eggs from plants in the cabbage family. Do the same for Mexican bean beetles (yellow egg masses on leaf undersides).
• Prevent flea beetle infestations with row covers. Spray with pyrethrum or neem, both are derived from plants and considered low-risk organic controls. A light dusting of eggplant leaves with flour or wood ash can also deter flea beetles.
• Search the undersides of squash and pumpkin leaves for copper-colored squash bug eggs, and destroy them.
• For slug damage, in a wet period, set out tuna cans filled with beer or a brew of molasses, water and yeast. The slugs will crawl into them and drown. Boards and grapefruit rinds, turned face down, will also attract slugs; turn the board or rind over in the morning and destroy the slugs.
• Plant pumpkin seeds this month for fall harvest.

Indoor Plants and Insect Tips

• Monitor houseplants kept indoors for mealybug, spider mites, aphids, whitefly, and scale. If houseplant pests are a problem consider spraying with a labeled horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. If possible, move the plants outside before spraying and when dry, move them back indoors. Discard heavily infested plants.
• Pantry pests, like Indian meal moths, grain beetles, cigarette beetles, and carpet beetles may be found around windows trying to get out of your home. These pests can be swept up or vacuumed.  No chemical controls are recommended.

Rachel J. Rhodes, rjrhodes@umd.edu is the Horticulture Educator and Master Gardener Coordinator for the University of Maryland Extension in Queen Anne’s County. She is one third of the Garden Thyme Podcast. The Garden Thyme Podcast is a monthly podcast where University of Maryland Extension Educators, help you get down and dirty in your garden, with timely gardening tips, information about native plants, and more!

For further information, please visit https://extension.umd.edu/queen-annes-county/master-gardener-home-gardening or see us on Facebook @ https://www.facebook.com/QueenAnnesCountyMasterGardeners or listen to The Garden Thyme Podcast at:  https://www.buzzsprout.com/687509

University programs, activities, and facilities are available to all without regard to race, color, sex, gender identity or expression, sexual orientation, marital status, age, national origin, political affiliation, physical or mental disability, religion, protected veteran status, genetic information, personal appearance, or any other legally protected class.

The promising warm weather of May is nipping at our heels; the gentle buzz of bees is among us and the buds of trees will soon be full-fledged leaves. In a matter of time, gardening season will be in full bloom. Here are some helpful tips to growing a successful garden.

Outdoor Garden and Yard Tips

• If your azaleas, rhododendrons and other spring flowering shrubs are growing too large prune them after they bloom.
• Thin out interior boxwood branches to improve air circulation and reduce disease problems such as volutella canker. Also, look out for boxwood blight.  Watch How to Prune Your Boxwoods.
• Older leaves of holly and magnolia may begin to yellow and drop. This is a natural process of regeneration and does not indicate a problem with the trees.
• Lace bug feeding may be seen on rhododendrons, azaleas, andromeda (Pieris japonica), and mountain laurel. Look for small white or yellow spots on the upper sides of leaves. On the underside of leaves, you may notice small black fecal spots, nymphs, and adults. Damage on new growth indicates overwintering eggs have hatched and the new generation has started to feed. There are multiple generations per growing season.  Lace bugs are more of a problem on stressed plants growing on exposed, hot, and sunny sites.
• Rose Rosette, a relatively new disease of roses caused by a systemic virus and spread by small eriophyid mites, can kill landscape roses. Including the more disease resistant roses such as the Knockout cultivars.
• Summer annual bulbs like gladiolus, tuberous begonias, cannas, caladium, and dahlias can be planted now.
• Attract pollinators and natural enemies to your landscape by planting a wide variety of flowering annuals and perennials, including native plants that will bloom over the entire growing season.
• Did your garden get overtaken by weeds last year? Start spreading mulch around plants and between rows. Use dried grass clippings, leaves collected from last fall, sections of newspaper covered with straw, black landscape fabric.
• Cover strawberry plants with bird netting, tulle (found in fabric stores), or floating row cover before the berries become ripe to exclude birds, squirrels, and other hungry critters.
• Leave grass clippings where they lay. Grasscycling eliminates bagging labor and costs, adds organic matter and nitrogen to your soil and does not contribute to thatch build-up.
• Carpenter bees cause concern at this time of year. They make clean, round holes about a ½ inch in diameter but usually will not bother wood that is freshly painted or stained.
• Ticks are active when the temperature is above freezing. Wear light-colored clothing and get in the habit of checking yourself, your loved ones, and pets closely for ticks after spending time outdoors. Repellents are also an effective tool to keep ticks away.

Photo: For snow peas – pick when pods are large and flat but before seed begins to enlarge.For snap peas (edible pods) – when pods are succulent and seeds are small. Remove “strings” from along the suture of the pod before cooking or eating. Always pick pods when they are tender, to keep plants producing. (Photo credit: Rachel Rhodes)

Vegetable Garden

• Pinch the blooms off tomato, pepper and other plants before setting them out in the garden; this will encourage root and stem growth. Continue to pinch off pepper blossoms for 2-3 weeks to establish a stronger, higher yielding plant.
• Keep cutworms away from cabbage, broccoli and other susceptible plants by putting a cardboard or plastic collar around each plant, or sprinkle ground up oyster shells, cat litter, sharp sand, or other gritty material around each one.
• Keep weeding and thinning plants. To keep down weeds, mulch plants with dried grass clippings, sections of newspaper covered with straw, black landscape fabric or black plastic. Do not mulch with wood chips or bark, which takes nitrogen out of the soil as it decomposes.
• As peas ripen, pick pods when tender, to keep plants producing.
• Don’t let transplants or young seedlings dry out. Use a drip irrigation system, soaker hose, sprinkler, or hand-held hose with a water breaker (shower head), to keep beds evenly moist, but not too wet.
• Plant warm-season crops like tomatoes and peppers, only after danger of frost is past. Mix ½ cup of ground lime with soil in the planting hole to prevent blossom-end rot. Water each transplant with a soluble fertilizer, like compost tea or kelp extract to get them off to a good start.
• Pound in stakes or install tomato cages, at planting time, to prevent plant damage later.
• Set out herbs in pots or plant in garden beds.
• Inspect plants daily for cucumber beetles, cabbageworms, vine borers and flea beetles, which can be excluded with row covers. For plants requiring cross-pollination—cucumber, squash, melon, pumpkin—take covers off when plants are flowering, to let in pollinators.
• Hand pick cabbage worms from broccoli and other members of the cabbage family, or spray with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). Bt may injure non-pest butterfly larvae, though, so use judiciously.

Indoor Plants and Insect Tips

• Fleas are sometimes observed in homes where there are no pets. The most likely source is a wild animal such as a raccoon living in the attic, crawl space, chimney or some other sheltered area connected to the inside of the home. If you have pets that have a flea problem, contact your veterinarian for the safest and most effective flea control products.
• Clover mites are usually most noticeable in the spring when temperatures are between 45° and 80°F and the humidity is high. On warm days they cross the grass and crawl up the sunny sides of buildings and will possibly enter into homes.

Rachel J. Rhodes, rjrhodes@umd.eduis the Horticulture Educator and Master Gardener Coordinator for the University of Maryland Extension in Queen Anne’s County. She is one third of the Garden Thyme Podcast. The Garden Thyme Podcast is a monthly podcast where University of Maryland Extension Educators, help you get down and dirty in your garden, with timely gardening tips, information about native plants, and more!

For further information, please visit https://extension.umd.edu/queen-annes-county/master-gardener-home-gardening or see us on Facebook @ https://www.facebook.com/QueenAnnesCountyMasterGardeners or listen to The Garden Thyme Podcast at: https://www.buzzsprout.com/687509

University programs, activities, and facilities are available to all without regard to race, color, sex, gender identity or expression, sexual orientation, marital status, age, national origin, political affiliation, physical or mental disability, religion, protected veteran status, genetic information, personal appearance, or any other legally protected class.