Wine of the Week by Jenn Martella: Arneis DOCG “Bricco della Ciliegie”

Ciao Tutti!

This weekend we will taste my fave Italian white wine grape, the Arneis, from the Azienda Agricola Giovanni Almondo winery in Piemonte. Almondo named his Arneis DOCG “Bricco della Ciliegie” for the cherry (ciliegia) trees that were planted in the family’s ancient orchard adjacent to their vineyard’s 23 hectares.  

Along my stairway wall, I have pictures of my mother’s family, going back five generations to Barga, Italy, which seems quite recent compared to the Almondo family’s being listed in the civic register in their village of Monta since the 1300’s! Their certified organic vineyard is located on one of the highest elevations in the Roero area. Almondo attributes the vibrant and fresh style of his Arneis to the grapes thriving in this ideal terroir from constant breezes from the north, its altitude and a soil composed of sand, rocks and a high level of acidity. 

I love this medium weight white wine for its initial stone fruit flavors of both apricot and peach, then green apple, with a finish of floral accents. Since the Roero region is located on the other side of the Tanaro River from the famed appellations of Barolo and Barbaresco, many wine tourists miss the opportunity to taste what many wine experts consider to be Piedmonte’s noblest white grape, Arneis, by its best producer, Domenico Almondo. 

It is hard to imagine that by the 1960’s, planting of Arneis grapes had dwindled to a few rows but perhaps that occurred because Arneis, from an old Piedmontese phrase meaning “difficult person” or a “little rascal” is rather temperamental to work with, requiring patience and skill. Come join me at Piazza Italian Market on Friday from noon to 5:45 and Saturday from noon to 4:45 to see how delicious this “little rascal ” is- pair with Piazza’s robiola cheese, bagna cauda, risotto, fish or chicken. 

Cin Cin!

Jennifer Martella has pursued dual careers in architecture and real estate since she moved to the Eastern Shore in 2004. She has reestablished her architectural practice for residential and commercial projects and is a referral agent for Meredith Fine Properties. Her Italian heritage led her to Piazza Italian Market, where she hosts wine tastings every Friday and Saturday afternoons.