Profile: Lemon Leaf Cafe

JR Alfree obviously did not pay attention to the dismal record of restaurant failures when opening the Lemon Leaf Cafe in Chestertown just over two years ago. (A cursory review of statistics: an average of nine out of ten fail within the first year.) The cafe has quickly become one of the town’s established eateries.The Spy sat down with Alfree recently to discuss his success.

Born and raised in Galena, Alfree worked in a variety of local restaurants while growing up, operated a luncheonette in the Rudnick’s barn on Saturdays, and had his own catering business in the early ’80s. He then left the food industry, proceeding to work with various Fortune 500 companies for close to fifteen years, predominantly in human resources. When the recession hit in 2008, Alfree was let go. “I was over confident that I could find a job. I looked for two years,” he said. “I decided I had to reinvent myself to survive.” That meant moving back to the Eastern Shore, networking with family and friends, availing himself of their support while searching for the perfect spot to open a restaurant. He looked into a variey of spaces around the area – even Rehoboth (rent too high, too much competition), finally settling on his current location, on the corner of Cross and Cannon Streets in downtown Chestertown.

Alfree had the name picked out prior to the location. While living in LA, he belonged to a supper club; everyone took turns cooking for twelve. One evening, extremely tardy for his own dinner, he cobbled together a meal from items readily available, including lemons and lemon leaves from a tree in his backyard. Friends took to calling it dinner at the “Lemon Leaf Cafe.”

“I want my restaurant to feel just like my dining room at home,” Alfree told the Spy. “I try to go around and meet everyone – all of my guests.” The description ‘Southern hospitality’ came to mind when he related the story of going across the street to Play It Again Sam and purchasing a cappuccino for a guest who was upset there was none available at the Lemon Leaf.

Describing his cafe as a niche for classic Eastern Shore dishes: (cream of crab, crab cake, oyster stew, chicken and dumplings, hearty breakfast selections with ‘flannel cakes), Alfree added that he likes to introduce dishes from other locations, such as his Malibu salad with Craisins, blue cheese and glazed walnuts. Longtime family friends Miss Joanne Mulford and Norarene Hicks help staff the kitchen, making pastry from scratch and using favorite family recipes. Asked whether he still spent time in the kitchen Alfree laughed and said that his kitchen staff prefers that he stay out. He added that when interviewing a prospective employee, his last question is, “Do you mind cleaning up after people, because I’m a messy cook.” If they say yes, they get the job.

Although he did not originally include catering in his business plan, Alfree said it has since become an increasingly good proportion of his sales. “Chestertown has become a hot spot for destination weddings. We’ve had brides from Pennsylvania as well as San Francisco.” The catering menu offers everything from single platters to crab feasts; including homemade ice cream made on location with a hundred year old, old – fashioned machine. “Weddings are a boon for a number of local businesses; florists, event planners, hotels, etc.,” Alfree said, and that he was, “.. constantly sending people to other local shops and services.”

As to the rumors that the Lemon Leaf is moving, Alfree responded, “..we’re not moving anywhere, but I would consider opening a second location.” Current hours are Sunday – Wednesday, 7:30 am to 3 pm, Thursday through Saturday, 7:30 am to 8 pm.

Lemon Leaf Cafe
117 S Cross St
Chestertown, MD 21620
443 282 0004