Talbot County’s Master Gardener Program will receive an International David Gibby Search for Excellence Award in September during the 2021 International Master Gardener Conference. This prestigious award – named for the founder of all Master Gardener Programs – spotlights our University of Maryland Extension Master Gardeners’ “Nurture Nature Coaching Workshop.” The event took place in person, pre-pandemic, in the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum’s Van Lennep Auditorium in early March 2020.

This year’s IMG Conference, hosted by the Virginia Extension Master Gardener Program, will take place virtually. More than a thousand program volunteers from 50 states, Canada, and South Korea are expected to attend. The award, judged by peers, recognizes “exemplary group projects that show significant learning by Master Gardeners or the public” that “frequently serve as models, influencing the development of Master Gardener-led programs throughout the world.” Talbot County’s 3^rd place award appears in the “Program/Workshop” category with those from Fulton County, Georgia and Manatee County, Florida.

Photo: Talbot County Master Gardener Volunteers have been recognized with an international award for an innovative workshop designed to help our community garden more sustainably. Sharing the award are (Back) Mary Ripple, Melinda Hudson, Pat Jessup, Marilyn Reedy, Mary Sue Traynelis, Reenie Rice, Mikaela Boley (Front) Kathi Bangert, Mary Ellen Olcese, Janet Mackey, Rita Mhley, Sheilah Egan, Carol Jelich. Not pictured are Desne Roe, Leslie Coleman, Elizabeth Whiteley, Mary Revell, Janet Friedberg, Charlotte Meyer, Mimi Morris, Janis Trainor, Chris Myles-Tochko. Photo credit: Ron Ketter

The “Nurture Nature Coaching Workshop” involved more than 20 local Master Gardener Volunteers. As educational outreach, it encouraged residents to take actions in their own yards to make room for nature and create healthier living landscapes.

The workshop began with a brief video segment from a Joe Lamp’l “Growing a Greener World” television episode featuring entomologist Doug Tallamy, emphasizing how important it is for gardeners to plant native plants and create habitat for insects and birds.

In a subsequent panel discussion, 5 Master Gardeners shared stories and examples of ways they reduced their lawns and increased garden areas to support wildlife.

Afterwards, participants were offered the opportunity for one-on-one coaching with Master Gardener volunteers stationed around the auditorium.

To reinforce key points of the workshop, volunteers developed a brochure highlighting 10 achievable steps that participants could take to reduce lawn and “nurture nature” on residential properties ranging from multi-acre to small, townhouse yards.

The free program reached audience capacity with nearly 90 registered more than a week in advance. Post-program evaluations demonstrated that participants were enthusiastic to include more native plants, reduce lawn, and increase wildlife habitat. Additionally, nearly a dozen audience members requested Bay-Wise consultations by Master Gardener volunteers to help identify natural stewardship strategies for their own properties.

Talbot Master Gardeners continue to offer free Bay-Wise property consultations by request to:
Senior Agent Associate Mikaela Boley / mboley@umd.edu / 410 822-1244

To learn more about the Master Gardener Program, visit: https://extension.umd.edu/locations/talbot-county

There once was a garden in Maryland
Whose plants weren’t looking to grand
They all cried for rain
But it was totally in vain
Because Mother Nature wouldn’t lend them a hand

Outdoor Garden and Yard Tips

• August is frequently a dry month. If needed, water newly planted trees and shrubs. Allow the water to soak into the surrounding soil and the root ball.
• Fall webworm is a late summer caterpillar 1-2 inch long and hairy caterpillar. It creates large tent like webbing on the ends of branches of various shade trees and shrubs. Unsightly but causes little damage. Numerous caterpillars, including leafrollers, orange striped oak worm, green-striped maple worms, oak skeletonizers, and sawflies are feeding on various shade trees. No controls are necessary. If you see saddleback caterpillars or other stinging caterpillars, leave them be.
• Avoid mowing your lawn during extreme dry and hot weather. Mowing wounds grass blades creating more surface area for plant moisture to escape.
• Brown patch is a common fungal disease of tall fescue lawns that creates thin, brown areas. Grasses will green up and recover in the fall. No chemical controls are recommended. This disease is typically worse on over-fertilized and irrigated lawns.
• Remove hosta leaves that are yellowing or scorched (brown leaf margins). In many cases, this is caused by a combination of hot, dry conditions, or diseases like alternaria and anthracnose (Colletotrichum). If disease related, leaf removal will help to slow down disease progression.
• Southern blight, a significant soil-borne disease, is promoted by hot and humid weather. It attacks a wide range of annuals, groundcovers, and perennials including thyme, coneflower, coreopsis, and black-eyed Susan. Affected lower stems turn brown or black, foliage wilts and plants will eventually dry up and die.
• Submit a soil sample for testing if planning a lawn renovation project in the fall.
• European hornets sometimes strip the bark off shrubs (especially lilac) and trees. This behavior rarely does harm. The European hornet is a large yellow and brown hornet that nests in cavities in trees, stumps, wood piles, sheds, etc., and feeds on insects. Unlike most other wasps and hornets this one is a night flyer.
• Try to ignore hornet, bee, and wasp nests found outside, especially if they are located in a tree or an isolated area. These are beneficial creatures that will not sting unless disturbed or provoked. However, if a hornet or yellowjacket nest is a threatening nuisance such as under your deck or near a door you can destroy it with a labeled wasp and hornet spray at night. Read and follow all label directions.
• Roses weakened or stressed by the hot dry summer weather are incredibly vulnerable to mites, aphids, and Japanese beetles. Japanese beetles can be controlled by knocking them off into a cup of soapy water. A low population of aphids does little damage and can be washed off with a steady stream of water from your hose. Remember to let the water run for a few moments to run out the hot water from the days sun before spraying plants. Aphids have many natural enemies including parasitic wasps, ladybird beetles (ladybugs) and larvae, and green lacewing adults and larvae. These natural enemies help keep aphid populations under control.
• High heat and humidity encourages powdery mildew in perennials. Avoid overhead watering. Remove diseased stems and leaves. Make a note in your garden log for next season to move affected plants further apart to increase air circulation between plants.

Photo: Scout squash plants for squash vine borer. If you notice a suddenly wilted squash plant inspect the vine for signs of holes and frass (moist greenish or orange sawdust like material). The stem near the entrance hole will feel mushy. The borer can be controlled in two ways. For active borers, make a vertical slit upward from where frassis observed. Use a razor or sharp knife and cut half-way through the stem. Remove and kill borer. Mound soil over the wound to induce supplemental rooting. However if there are several entrance holes all over the plant it is recommended to remove the plant and place is a black trash bag and put it in the sun for a few days. This will kill the squash vine borer larvae. Do not throw the plant in your compost pile. Photo credit: Rachel Rhodes.

Vegetable Garden

• Harvest tomatoes when they first change color and ripen them on a kitchen counter.
• Brown and green Southern stink bugs are active on tomatoes and peppers. They feed on the fruits producing a yellow or white “cloudy spot” directly under the fruit skin. These spots become hard but can be cut out with a sharp knife and won’t affect flavor. If stink bugs are a problem, try handpicking first or spraying pyrethrum.  The spray must contact the stinkbugs to be effective.
• Harvest and preserve tarragon, rosemary, basil, sage, and other culinary herbs. Fresh basil leaves freeze well in plastic bags that can be sealed. Pick individually, and dry indoors, or hang the stems a dry, semi-shady room. Store dry leaves in air-tight jars. Herb leaves are most intensely flavored right before the plant blooms.
• Remove and dispose of all rotted or dropped fruits and foliage from trees, vines, and bushes. This will help reduce the overwintering of diseases and insect pests that will attack your fruit plants next season.
• Plant a late crop of basil, cilantro, and dill and a last crop of snap beans the first week of August.
• Plant cool season crops, including spinach, lettuce, carrots, beets, broccoli, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, turnips, kale and mustard. Keep seedlings moist and mulched.  Order garlic, walking onions, and shallots for fall planting.
• Grass clippings and spent plants from the flower and vegetable garden provide a good source of high nitrogen green materials for the compost pile. Fallen leaves and old straw mulch are good sources of high carbon brown materials. Shred your materials with a lawnmower, string trimmer or machete to speed-up the breakdown process. Keep sticks, roots, and woody stems out of your compost pile. They take too long to breakdown and make it difficult to turn the ingredients. Water your compost pile weekly when you water the garden and turn it regularly.

Rachel J. Rhodes, rjrhodes@umd.edu is the Horticulture Educator and Master Gardener Coordinator for the University of Maryland Extension in Queen Anne’s County. She is one third of the Garden Thyme Podcast. The Garden Thyme Podcast is a monthly podcast where University of Maryland Extension Educators, help you get down and dirty in your garden, with timely gardening tips, information about native plants, and more!

For further information, please visithttps://extension.umd.edu/queen-annes-county/master-gardener-home-gardening  or see us on Facebook @ https://www.facebook.com/QueenAnnesCountyMasterGardeners or listen to The Garden Thyme Podcast at:  https://www.buzzsprout.com/687509

University programs, activities, and facilities are available to all without regard to race, color, sex, gender identity or expression, sexual orientation, marital status, age, national origin, political affiliation, physical or mental disability, religion, protected veteran status, genetic information, personal appearance, or any other legally protected class.

If you have not noticed summer is officially here. The hot dry weather can do significant damage to our plants and gardens. Here are some tips to help you along the way:

Outdoor Garden and Yard Tips

• Spotted lanternfly adults may be found feeding on many hosts, especially tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissma). Report any finds to the Maryland Department of Agriculture immediately, collect a sample or take digital photos on what you have found.
• Japanese beetles may be feeding heavily at this time. Brush the beetles into a bucket of soapy water held underneath foliage or branches. The use of Japanese beetle traps near your plants is not recommended. Studies show that traps can attract more beetles to your landscape resulting in increased damage.
• Mulch your landscape now if you haven’t done so already.  Mulch helps keep weeds down and conserves soil moisture. Mulch should be applied 1-2 inches deep and kept away from tree and shrub trunks.
• Bagworm caterpillars are now very active. Look for little bags crawling around on evergreen trees and shrubs and be prepared to spray infested trees with the microbial insecticide, Bt by mid-July. Mature bagworms are not well controlled with Bt They are best collected by hand and destroyed or sprayed with insecticides containing spinosad.
• Proper lawn mowing is critical to help it survive the summer. “Mow ‘em high and let ‘em lie” should be your mowing strategy. Cut your cool-season turf (fescues and bluegrass) to a height of 3-4 inches and leave the clippings on the lawn where they will naturally decompose.

• Chrysanthemums and asters should be cut back halfway by mid-July to encourage fall blooming. If not trimmed they will bloom later this month and not in the fall.
• Patrol your yard for mosquito breeding sites. At least twice a week, check and remove water that may be standing in trash and recycling cans, flower pot saucers, children’s and pets toys, wading pools, tires, tarps or plastic sheeting.
• Ticks are active year-round. After spending time outdoors in an area where ticks may be present get in the habit of doing a tick check upon your arrival home.
• Tie all dahlias and lilies to the upper third of their stakes. Stake gladiolus as they gain height.
• Harvest or deadhead dahlias and other flowering bulbs and annuals.
• Check the moisture in plant containers every three to four days. Check small pots and hanging baskets every day.

Vegetable Garden

• The hot July sun will quickly heat up the water in a hose. Run the hose until the water is tepid before watering the garden. A vegetable garden needs at least 1 inch of water per week in the summer.
• Blossom-end rot of tomato, pepper, squash, and watermelon causes the bottom (blossom) end of the fruit to become brown and rotted. Remove injured fruits, water plants well, and mulch to conserve soil moisture. Consistent watering and adequate calcium can prevent this disorder.

• Squash vine borer larvae are feeding inside squash and pumpkin stems. If leaves are wilting, or you see holes in the lower stems, with sawdust-like fresh, or droppings around the holes, slit the stem above the hole and with a razor and remove the larva. Then mound soil around the injured stem.
• Brown rot infects peach, cherry, and plum fruits. Pick peaches when background color changes and before fruits become fully ripened. Bring fruits indoors, submerge them in a 1:10 bleach to water solution to kill brown rot fungal spores, rinse well, and allow them to ripen in the kitchen.
• Leave blueberries on the plants for three to five days after they turn blue. This allows berries to reach their maximum sugar content.
• Harvest onions when tops die back; let them dry in the garden after digging them up, or tie the stems together and hang them up in a garage or attic with good air circulation. Store onions in a cool, dry place.
• Dig up garlic when the tops yellow and die; let dry in the sun, then store in an airy place before braiding, or storing in mesh bags, and hanging in a dry place.

Indoor Plants and Insect Tips

Photo: Tomato Hornworms are active in July. During their three-week lifespan, these caterpillars can gain more than one thousand times their weight. (Photo credit: Rachel Rhodes)

Photo: Squash bug eggs: These little copper eggs are often found on the underside of squash leaves and on stems. Eggs hatch in about 10 days, and nymphs mature in about four to six weeks. Both adults and nymphs hide under leaves when disturbed. (Photo credit: Rachel Rhodes)

Rachel J. Rhodes, rjrhodes@umd.edu is the Horticulture Educator and Master Gardener Coordinator for the University of Maryland Extension in Queen Anne’s County. She is one third of the Garden Thyme Podcast. The Garden Thyme Podcast is a monthly podcast where University of Maryland Extension Educators, help you get down and dirty in your garden, with timely gardening tips, information about native plants, and more!

For further information, please visit https://extension.umd.edu/queen-annes-county/master-gardener-home-gardening  or see us on Facebook @ https://www.facebook.com/QueenAnnesCountyMasterGardeners or listen to The Garden Thyme Podcast at:  https://www.buzzsprout.com/687509

University programs, activities, and facilities are available to all without regard to race, color, sex, gender identity or expression, sexual orientation, marital status, age, national origin, political affiliation, physical or mental disability, religion, protected veteran status, genetic information, personal appearance, or any other legally protected class.